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:. Alt berguedà .:.
trekking 1 day .:. La Dou
del Bastareny
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Introduction
Gisclareny is a borough with a scattered
population. In the middle of the 19th century, there were
some 120 farmhouses scattered throughout the territory, most
of them quite impoverished. Hikers at the turn of the 20th
century agreed that the village was as a place where misery
reigned, with subsistence agriculture - very far from the
idyllic environment of today. Even so, they all remarked on
the beauty of the Bastareny valley and the houses there. This
route runs along some of the paths connecting the houses in
the valley, now all abandoned, and the centre of the borough,
set in a framework of great natural beauty within the Cadí-Moixeró
Natural Park.
Description
The route begins at the Coll de la Bena
pass, following the same layout as the Camí dels Bons Homes
(Cathars route) (GR 107) and the GR 150. Here you will find
Font Vella, a lovely spot and a good opportunity to fill your
canteens before starting the walk. Very soon, the GR goes
to the right and you should go left until you come to a track
that you take and stay on until you reach Murcarols, the first
of the great farmhouses of the valley that can be seen along
the route. Before getting there, you again come to the waymarks
of the GR. The Murcarols house has been documented since the
Middle Ages. The present house is in fact the result of several
extensions undertaken in different periods. Can you pick out
the various additions? (clue: look for the vertical seams
that join the walls).
Early documentation also mentioned a castle
in this site, perhaps on the shoulder located towards the
east. In any case, nothing at all remains of it. Castle or
no castle, this is an excellent place to enjoy the view, which
stretches from the Bauma pass to the west, Tancalaporta, the
Moixa ranges, El Moixeró, and the Cortalets pass below Tancalaporta,
the Vimboca coombe in front, and Els Empedrats a little further
east. In the northern shady area of the mountain in front,
there is an unmistakable depression, wide at the top and narrow
at the bottom. This is the Cambra dels Bocs where lambs were
closed in after the mating period so as not to bother the
ewes and their young.
After the visit, go back to the track
junction and take the trail descending to the bottom of the
valley. You must be careful on this descent because there
are sections with a very steep slope. Along the descent, you
will see a house in front. This is Monnell, another of the
great farmhouses in the area. It is somewhat far from the
route but it can easily be reached by going straight ahead
at the track junction when you emerge from the Muga stream.
The trail leaves you at the end of the descent after crossing
the stream twice. When you cross the stream the second time,
the route turns right, but if you follow the path on the left
for about a hundred metres, you reach the Murcarols cascade,
which is particularly attractive when the flow is heavy. You
can see how the rough stone, deposited in times of drought,
has gradually taken the form of a toboggan through the action
of the water.
When you go back on the route, you
reach the Dou del Bastareny, one of the main tourist attractions
of the area. Photographs of this cascade appear in countless
postcards. At the turn of the 20th century, there was a sawmill
here and the logs were carried by cable car to Bagà. If you
go down to the stream, before passing the barred track, you
will see two cement columns. They held the wheel moved by
water carried from the river along a wooden canal. At the
other side of the bridge, a path has been laid leading to
the spring, some 100 metres upstream from the cascade. This
spot is a little wild and quite impressive when the flow is
heavy.
You will later come to the Bullidor
de Sant Esteve whirlpool. You will see a post indicating the
whirlpool on the left side. It leads to some springs at the
lower part of the river. They are more easily seen when the
water flow is low. Be careful when you go downhill as there
are some very high steps.
Go back on to the signposted route
and, just before the route veers from the track, you will
see a shed on the right from where you will hear the sound
of water. This is the Violí spring, the water of which is
now carried to Bagà. Before climbing up to El Puig along the
trail going right, it's well worth keeping on the track a
little further until you reach the Puig or Forat mill next
to the river. It is hard to believe that just fifty years
ago, all these houses were inhabited and the lands tilled.
The path emerges in front of the Puig
house. This house has been cited in documents from the Middle
Ages, although the present building dates from the 18th century.
It is special in that it is one of the very few houses in
El Berguedà to have a hipped roof. The small Romanesque church
of Sant Martí del Puig stands above. The door is always open:
go in. Behind the church there is a stone with an imprint
that looks like a foot. It is called the Virgin's footprint,
Petjada de la Mare de Déu.
The path goes up to the ridge to the
Escriga pass. It eventually leads to meadows and the view
changes. You are now overlooking the neighbourhood of Berta
and behind are the majestic peaks of El Pedraforca. When you
cross the meadow, you will see piles of stones scattered all
around. This is not by chance, they have been heaped up year
after year to keep the fields clear. When you see piles of
stones like this, it's a sure sign that there were once crop
fields there. On the right of the meadow, half hidden by the
woods, is the Escriga house and just before going downhill,
behind the signposts, are the ruins of Cal Peret, crushed
by huge rocks that came off the limestone rockwall against
which it was set. Take care on the descent as there are many
loose stones in the middle of the path and it is easy to fall.
After descending some 100 metres,
the path forks. The sign-posted route continues on the left
but if you follow the path going straight ahead, you will
go around a rock and see an enormous cavity: this is Cal Bisbe,
once inhabited. You can still see some of the stones of the
walls and signs of smoke on the rockwalls. It was abandoned
in the second half of the 19th century, and now serves as
a shelter for goats.
Once at Gisclareny, you will find
the spring of the same name; an opportunity to fill your canteens
again before reaching the Coll de la Bena pass.
Ruta recomanada per
Hostal
i Restaurant Cal Batista
Hotel
i Restaurant Ca l'Amagat

Technical data
Approximate distance: |
11 kilometres |
Approximate duration: |
5 hours |
Signposting: |
Green and white waymarks along the route |
Starting point: |
Coll de la Bena - 1,450 m (Gisclareny). You can also
start the route from the village of Gisclareny or from
Cal Cerdanyola (the start of Empedrats route) |
finishing point: |
Coll de la Bena - 1,450 m (Gisclareny). You can also
start the route from the village of Gisclareny or from
Cal Cerdanyola (the start of Empedrats route) |
Car park: |
Coll de la Bena. |
Points of interest: |
Coll de la Bena pass, Font Vella spring, Murcarols,
Murcarols cascade, La Dou del Bastareny, Bullidor de
Sant Esteve whirlpool, Sant Martí del Puig, L'Escriga,
Cal Peret, Cal Bisbe, Gisclareny spring |
Services:
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For services in Baga or Gisclareny, please refer to the tourist services section. |
Bibliography: |
Catalunya Romànica, volume XII, El Berguedà
Les tres-centes cases de Gisclareny by Francesc Caballé
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Maps: |
El Berguedà 1:50.000. Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya.
Moixeró - La Tosa 1:25.000. Editorial Alpina. |
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