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:. Alt berguedà .:.
trekking 1 day .:. Els Empedrats
(PR C 125)
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Introduction
This itinerary has two quite different
sections: the ascent is made along the old La Cerdanya high
road - cool and shady - that follows the Pendís river valley,
which you have to wade through in many places. To make up
for this, the descent crosses the back part of La Boixassa,
wide and sunny, with vast views and a complete absence of
water.
As a token of its importance, the
uphill path was cobbled in many parts to avoid erosion, especially
on the slopes. You can still see the stones driven in on their
sides.
Description
The route starts at the neighbourhood
of L'Hostalet. At the beginning of the itinerary there are
two houses. Next to the Dou track is Cal Cerdanyola, which
once had a mill that used the waters of the Pendís river.
The Hostalet house is on the other side of the river, next
to the path that goes up to the Pendís pass via Els Empedrats.
Although in ruins, you can still make out the structure of
a 16th century farmhouse that was later added to as it was
used as a hostel for the high road of La Cerdanya.
Start climbing up along the bank of
the river that you cross after about 15 minutes to the left
side of the Empedrats bridge. From here you can easily see
the impressive splay crevasse cut by the waters into the limestone
rock. Before going along the Empedrats ravine, you will come
to a path that emerges from the left and fords through the
river - it is usually indicated with a post. This path leads
to what is known as the Bullidor de la Llet, an impressive
whirlpool in fissures of the limestone rock. You get there
after a short but very steep slope but it is only of real
interest in rainy seasons; in summer and winter it is usually
dry.
From this point, the path goes right
into the riverbed and skirts the imposing rock obstructing
the river: this is the area of Els Empedrats. There is now
a mixture of river and path so you should keep on the stepping
stones. If a lot of water is flowing you will be sure to get
drenched!
You will now soon come to the Escriu
gorge. This is a very beautiful spot where the path keeps
above the river that leaps and glides among the rocks. Right
in the bed of the stream is the Gran d'Escriu spring, which
is only visible when there is little water coming from the
main valley. The spring is found a few metres from where the
stream crosses a track coming from the Escriu house, in ruins.
Just when you get to the top, you
will see the Sant Jordi hut and the link with the GR 107 (Camí
dels Bons Homes - Cathars Route). The hut is open in the months
of June, July, August and September. When there is no caretaker
and the refuge is closed, there is a free part at the back
but it is very primitive and only advisable in case of emergencies.
Next to the hut there is also a fountain; if it's not working,
go and look for the old Faig spring, located in a small cavern
under a huge poplar west of the hut. You have to go by the
side of the ruins of the old Font del Faig house. It always
seems to flow, even in years of drought. The path you must
take goes alongside the spring and up to cross a white crag.
You soon reach the Galligans pass,
a narrow pass from where you enter the Galligans valley, the
head of La Boixassa and its long crag that seems to bar the
way of Els Empedrats. The head of the Galligans valley was
once an area of pasture meadows but is now much reduced in
size. Below the path, hidden in the vegetation, is the Galligans
shepherds hut, a circular stone edifice with a slate dome.
At the head of this valley there is
a crossroads. Take the path that goes below the head of La
Boixassa, level with the cliff.
From here you can take in great views
to the west, with El Cadí and El Pedraforca as a backdrop
and the stretching Bastareny valley at your feet. You can
see why this mountain is called the 'forked rock'. Box trees
feature in this stage, and the adverse weather conditions
they have to withstand give them a different colouring according
to the season: red tones in winter that become green in the
spring and in rainy seasons.
When you get to the Pelosa pass, on
the right you will find the connection with the track going
up from Monnell. Though it hardly seems possible, there was
once a house in this spot: La Pelosa. The ruins are found
beside the path, covered by brambles, near a pond there. You
will be treading on the crop fields of this house on the nearer
flank, the walls of the crop terraces are hidden among the
vegetation and the stony ground on the slope. Keep your eyes
open because a few metres past the pond you have to leave
the track and go on a trail going left.
Beside the stream, under La Pelosa,
are the Cal Quim caverns. The path smoothly flanks the wide,
stony, pointed heads of the Cal Quim stream. You go below
the Boixassa caverns before entering the Riberetes coombe.
When you go into this coombe, on the
side facing east, there are crop terraces that would have
led from the Boixassa or Pelosa caverns, depending on the
period. When you go into the main stream it becomes dark again.
You are entering coal bunker country, only visible to trained
eyes; they are usually round in shape and form a ramp that
breaks the slope, they normally use the bed of the stream
and there are always pieces of coal lying about.
When you get to the Dou track, if
you still have enough energy, you can keep going a few more
metres towards the river and, next to the bridge that cross
the Bastareny river, you will see the ruins of the Forat mill,
converted into a house in the 19th century.
Ruta recomanada per
Hostal
i Restaurant Cal Batista
Hotel
i Restaurant Ca l'Amagat
Technical data
Approximate distance: |
11 kilometres |
Approximate duration: |
5 hours. |
Signposting: |
Yellow and white waymarks along the route |
Starting point: |
Neighbourhood of L'Hostalet, on the track from Bagà
to the source of the Bastareny |
finishing point: |
Neighbourhood of L'Hostalet, on the track from Bagà
to the source of the Bastareny |
Car park: |
Parking of the neighbourhood of L'Hostalet |
Points of interest: |
Bullidor de la Llet whirlpool, Els Empedrats, Escriu
gorge, Font Gran d'Escriu spring, Faig spring, Galligans
pass, Boixassa pass and excellent views of the Cadí
and El Moixeró ranges |
Services:
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For services in the area consult the section on
tourist services. |
Bibliography: |
Catalunya Romànica, volume XII, El Berguedà. |
Maps: |
El Berguedà 1:50.000. Institut
Cartogràfic de
Catalunya.
Moixeró – La Tosa 1:25.000. Editorial Alpina. |
Comments: |
In the area of El Empedrats you must be careful not to
slip, especially during the winter. If it's raining,
bear in mind that a sudden rise in the water level of
the river is possible. Between La Pelosa and La Ribereta,
the characteristics of the terrain make it a little
hard to see the path in many places. Try not to lose
sight of the waymarks. |
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